I'm cleaning brake pads for the first time. I found the rears needed replacing and followed MuddySumps excellent videos to do this.
This went great. However, I made a significant mistake when cleaning the fronts.
While pumping the lever to push the calipers pistons out further for cleaning, I pushed one completely out. This let air into my brake system.So, I followed MuddySumps video to bleed the brakes using the pump attached to the bleeder valve with the reservoirs cap off. After about a half dozen attempts, I could not get to the point where air is not in the system. I'm always showing air bubbles in the brake fluid. It's hard to pump near the caliper and still see the fluid level in the reservoir on the handlebar, so a couple of times I ran the fluid out of the reservoir, therefore putting air back in and starting the whole process over.Before I haul the bike off to a dealer over 100 miles away, I'm ready to try the gravity feed method or any other process to bleed my front brakes but could use some detailed description on the process. I'd appreciate any help.
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When I bleed the brakes, I start with the Mini Vac to flush out the old fluid, then go to old fashioned squeeze and hold, while opening the brake bleeder. I find it almost impossible to get bubble free brakes with just the vacuum method. I think the tube on the bleeder, or the bleeder itself just leaks a little air, showing as bubbles. The other thing that works is to just suck a little vacuum, then squeeze and hold the normal way.
I have done brake systems that were completely empty this way. You probably didn't get any air in the ABS, but might be worth a trip to the dealer just to have them purge the ABS. +2 on ignoring the little bubbles coming from the mighty-vac. I pump up the vacuum and then focus my attention on keeping the fluid level in the reservoir up high as it pulls fluid through the system. When the fluid level drop slows down I pump the vacuum back up and continue to monitor the reservoir level.I have never had much luck by only pulling fluid thru without also giving the brake lever a few pumps during the process. I think pumping the brake a few times while bleeding helps dislodge stubborn air bubbles.When you're done bleeding if the lever still feels a little spongy you may want to crack the main line open at the master cylinder while squeezing the lever using a standard pump, hold, bleed, close, brake bleeding method to get any last bubbles out since Triumph does not include a bleeder at the MC. (this last step done with the mighty vac removed and the lower bleeder closed).
Thanks for all the help. I've got the brakes bled.
For those of you who, like me, haven't done this before, here's the process that worked for me. I didn't have to do anything with the ABS system.ONE METHOD TO BLEED BRAKES: (This must be the Squeeze and Hold!;-) )This method is a two man operation on the Tiger. One person will open and close the bleeder valve while watching for air being pressed out of the line. The other person will work the front brake lever and ensure that fluid stays in the reservoir. If the brake fluid reservoir drains and the port at the bottom is exposed, air will be sucked back into the system and the whole process must be started over. place a clear plastic hose over the bleeder valve.
This enables you to drain brake fluid into a container. Remove the reservoir cap. Starting with the furthest caliper from the reservoir, (in the Tiger the bikes left) with the bleeder valve closed, pump the brake lever about 15 times. Hold the brake lever in. Open the bleeder valve. Let air escape, look for solid brake fluid.
Close the bleeder valve. Aerofly fs keygen download for idm. Release brake lever. Repeat #3-8 until you see no air in the escaping fluid. Close the left calipers bleeder valve. Move to the right caliper and repeat until you have no or very little air and the brake lever is firm.A great visual on bleeding the brakes is onNote that he uses the mityvac pump in the video where I just pumped with the brake lever. Click to expand.I never bought the speed bleeders.I did, however, flush the five year old fluid out of my 2013 XC today. The bike spent two and a half of those five years sitting in the showroom.
Last two and a half mostly sitting idle in my garage while I keep racking up miles on my older 2012 XC (70,000 miles). The '13 model, with 1623 miles, is finally being pressed into service because the 2012 model is still out of action. RaceTech has had the forks for eight weeks and counting. No return date yet established as they are waiting on parts.A couple photos to show contrastNow for the coolant. Tiger Tool can be used to bleed the bikes that have ABS. Dealer Tool will do it also, but Tiger Tool is free other than buying a $15 cable.
Dealer Tool is roughly $100.You can bleed the brakes all day long manually like has been described above, but that will not purge the fluid old out of the ABS system. That is where the diagnostic tools come into play.
2018 Triumph Tiger 800 Service Manual
They cycle the ABS pumps to flush out the ABS system. No you won't get an error if you don't flush out the ABS system (unless you have an error), but you also aren't performing a full system flush.
I'm pretty keen on the new 800XCX, but I keep hearing about the horrendous service costs. Here in Australia at least. Or is it universal?
Triumph Tiger 800 Specs
One guy I know payed $1200:eek1. Me being the typical tight arse Aussie type and have never payed for a service in my life of 38 yrs on the road, can't quite believe it either. Good lord, it's just a bloody motor stuck between 2 wheels. Throw in a bit of electrickery and brakes and coolant. What can be so difficult. Is it just the dealers/Thriumph gauging (typical Australian affliction)?
Or am I missing something here. The only reason I'd pay for a service is to maintain the warranty. Mind most now-a-days can't even change a tyre and need everything done for them, thus the dealers sticking it to them. Of course every one here, is hands on.All advice much appreciatedGraeme. Graeme,I don't think the service costs are any better here either. Last 12k (B & D) service I had donecost me $897.00 USD (1150 Austrailian). I kind of expected that really, but what I didn't expectwas that they charged me $14.60 for a $7.99 spark plug (x3).
Then they told me that waswhat Triumph charged. No, I think Triumph charged you less, but you charged me $15.(probably not, but that's what I thought)Since the bike was out of warranty at that point, I felt that I'd had enough. So I now do all ofmy service myself. I can get a 12k service kit for $121 (plugs, gaskets, oil/air filter, etc.), theoil for about $9/qt, and the 'technician' time is free. If you need to see how to do one or moreof the services, check out MuddySump's videos on YouTube or his website. Of course, you'llneed to get your hands on the Dealertool software to get into the bike's computer to do someof the work, but that cost will be spread out over time. I'd also suggest you pick up Triumph'sheadstock nut socket (or make your own) so you can do the headstock maintenance.If you can operate a torque wrench, you can do most if not all of the maintenance workyourself.
Even I can do this, and I'm no mechanic. Mushroom kingdom map minecraft. Frankly, if I had a tire changer, I'd haveno need to a dealership again.Of course, these are just the ramblings of a snow-bound lunatic. CPOret, really appreciate the response.
I was just wandering if there was something really unique about this bike, that resulted in such high costs. Special tools maybe, hours to take plastics off and on? I don't know. I'm just trying to get to the bottom of it.I note with interest, that on the Australian official Triumph website, the cost of accessories has kinda come into line with the rest of the 1st world. Particularly in regard to this new model.
I've been chewing this purchase over for a while now and one of the things holding me back was a:- the service costs and b:- the obligatory accessories needed. Here in Oz you can typically double what you pay in the USA or UK. Oh, I guess that's two things. The second one has been somewhat mitigated, with the extras that are std on the XCX.So unless someone convinces me otherwise, it would seem to be a dealer/Triumph policy to 'cream' the customer on servicing.Graeme. I took my Roadie into Stevens in Melbourne for its 1000km service in November. It is the first time I have ever taken a bike into a dealership for a service.
It cost Aus$330.00.I fully intend to do all future services myself as you say it's only a motor between two wheels. It is easy enough to get the reader and software to be able to reset the service interval spanner and to diagnose any fault codes.BTW. You may not be aware but Haynes are about to release a service manual for the Tiger 800 in the next couple of weeks. It won't cover the 2015 model but the basics should be there for most service work.Google 'Muddy Sump' on YouTube.
He has a series of excellent how to videos for the Tiger that cover most of the service basics. BTW hours to take plastics off is correct. To get at the air filter or top of the engine you need to remove the beak (6 screws). Three plastic panels on each side (12 screws), the seats (key), a trim piece over the ABS (2 screws), and the fank (2 screws, 2 electrical connectors, the fuel line and 2 breather hoses). The airbox lid is held on with eleven (yes I will repeat that eleven) 7mm screws!As far as accessories are concerned I have purchased everything locally. The prices for accessories when you take freight and convenience into account are pretty compatible with what they would cost from OS.
Most of the accessories I have purchased (pannier frames, crash bars, etc) are not Triumph. K1W1 is correct about taking the plastic bits off to get at the air box.
The last time I tookmy bike to the dealer, I stripped off all of the extra stuff - engine bars, side & top cases;pretty much anything that would increase the time it took to do the service.There are a couple of special tools required to do some services on this bike - the fuelpressure gauge, fuel line & fuel pump extensions come to mind. Those will run over$300, but I don't think they're really needed for a 6 or 12 k service.I don't think it's a dealer or Triumph policy to 'cream' the customer.
Just one of therealities of doing business. I don't know much about running a business, or evenrunning a business in Australia, but here it costs a serious chunk of change. Withinsurance, building lease, taxes (Federal, State, County, City), and dealing with theIRS, it's more of a labor of love to run a shop nowadays. With Triumph (and others)charging so much $$$ to carry inventory and requiring X amount of dedicated floorspace, the dealers profit margin on bike really isn't that great. So, they have tomake it up somewhere else, and unfortunately that's in the service department.It's hard now to find any shop (car, bike) that charges less than $100 for servicehours. The hardest part of cylinder head access for the valve check will be removing the gas tank.
I've had the tank off my 800 twice now to install Triumph accessory fog lighting and heated grips and if it took me an hour at the longest that's because it was the first time I removed the tank and I was going really carefully. I've got 5,000 miles on mine and looking forward to my first 6000 mile service to include a throttle body balance.
I bought a factory service manual and a really easy to use aftermarket owner-written service procedure manual to go with the Dealertool and have hooked it up twice to get familiar with using it.I do all my own service on my motorcycles - here in the USA we don't have to take the bike to a dealer to maintain the warranty. Not sure Australia is the same.
2017 Triumph Tiger 800 Service Manual
Click to expand.It's the same here. All you have to do is be able to show that the vehicle has been serviced as per the manufacturer recommendations. If you do the work yourself it means keeping all receipts and notes of what was done, when.The problem comes about when something goes wrong. If the bike has been maintained at a dealership it is hard for them to blame quality of workmanship or missed actions. Generally dealerships are more responsive to their regular customers than to somebody who just turns up off the street with a problem. That of course is a balancing act that owners must do for themselves.
This is all good feedback and really appreciated. I understand the costs of overheads and all that. But your point, Bikepsych about the $250 Suzuki service I think demonstrates my point. My mate Rob, whom got stung $1200 for a service is still 'spitting chips' about it, 12 months after the event. I was just curious. Is there something demonstrably different to this bike than any other modern two wheel contraption and honestly, i don't think there is. Then again, maybe I should drag my tight as a camels arse, into the 21st century.
K1W1, I appreciate your insight on the home maintenance and still keep the warranty in tact. I thought that was indeed the case. If I go down the XCx route it's good to know.Graeme. It's the same here. All you have to do is be able to show that the vehicle has been serviced as per the manufacturer recommendations.
If you do the work yourself it means keeping all receipts and notes of what was done, when.The problem comes about when something goes wrong. If the bike has been maintained at a dealership it is hard for them to blame quality of workmanship or missed actions. Generally dealerships are more responsive to their regular customers than to somebody who just turns up off the street with a problem. That of course is a balancing act that owners must do for themselves. BTW hours to take plastics off is correct. To get at the air filter or top of the engine you need to remove the beak (6 screws).
Three plastic panels on each side (12 screws), the seats (key), a trim piece over the ABS (2 screws), and the fank (2 screws, 2 electrical connectors, the fuel line and 2 breather hoses). The airbox lid is held on with eleven (yes I will repeat that eleven) 7mm screws!As far as accessories are concerned I have purchased everything locally. The prices for accessories when you take freight and convenience into account are pretty compatible with what they would cost from OS. Most of the accessories I have purchased (pannier frames, crash bars, etc) are not Triumph.
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